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You’d be hard pressed to find a food North Carolinians are more passionate about. Here, barbecue is king. Renowned journalist Fiona Barton had it right when she said, “Barbecue is to North Carolina as the hot dog is to New York.”
The debate rages, as it has for decades, about which style of BBQ is best: Eastern Style, or Lexington Style, and boy, it’s a heated debate.
We’ve been eating barbecue here almost since people landed on the shores. In the early days of our history, we had one kind of barbecue; tomatoes were thought to be poisonous, so all BBQ was vinegar based.
In 1730, Virginian William Byrd wrote that “the inhabitants of North Carolina devour so much swine’s flesh, that it fills them full of gross humours.” While it may have been a rude statement, it does show that our love affair with barbecue goes back a long, long way.
In most parts of the world, “barbecue” is a verb.
bar·be·cue
/bärb kyo o/
verb
1.cook (meat, fish, or other food) on a barbecue.
Bless their hearts. They aren’t from here.
Photos Courtesy of NCDCR
Barbecue is a NOUN that means pork, slow roasted to particular specifications. There is a lot of argument about where the word came from, but we think the best guess is that settlers learned to cook pigs over hot coals from the Indigenous people, who called the process “barbacoa,” which slowly changed to “barbecue.”
For more than 200 years, barbecue in North Carolina remained basically unchanged. Cooks used “every part of the pig but the squeal.” Split in half, the hog would be slow roasted over low heat and chopped, then served with a vinegar sauce. In the earliest days, oyster juice was added to the vinegar sauce, but that went out of vogue, marking the only significant change for centuries.
For most of our history, pigs have been a staple food. They are easy and inexpensive to raise and delicious. Sometimes pigs were let loose to root in the forest, and only captured when it was slaughtering time. Hog farms have been important to North Carolina’s economy since Colonial times, and the industry brings in more than $2 billion annually.
Historians say that for every one pound of beef that North Carolinians ate, we ate five pounds of pork!
Barbecue followed the trains west, starting on the coast and eventually spreading to the whole state. This is mainly because it was a very convenient food for travel.
In the late 19th century, the key differences that divide the state began to emerge. It’s said that it was German immigrants who brought tomatoes to the Piedmont, and one of the first ways North Carolinians used them was add them to their barbecue sauce.
Lexington, North Carolina, made history in 1919, when their first BBQ restaurant opened. It was just a tent in the middle of town, opened by Sid Weaver. Soon after that, Jesse Swicegood opened a stand as well, and their culinary choices formed the bedrock for a new barbecue tradition.
Lexington Style barbecue is always pork shoulder. It’s cooked in large wood-fired pits for hours, then chopped up and covered with “dip.” That’s a vinegar and spice based sauce with ketchup added, served hot. You won’t find the white slaw traditionally served with Eastern barbecue. Instead red slaw is served, with ketchup replacing mayonnaise in the recipe.
If you order a barbecue sandwich in Lexington, it will taste exactly like it would have one hundred years ago. It will taste exactly like it will twenty years from now.
Today, you’ll find regional differences in the barbecue for every 50 miles or so that you travel. Fortunately for the foothills, most barbecue restaurants here offer both sauces, and sometimes even more.
Barbecue all over North Carolina is served with slaw, but we offer up two types. White slaw is coleslaw-mostly cabbage and mayonnaise and it’s served with BBQ in the East. The creamy side adds nice balance to the tart vinegar sauce. Red slaw, also called BBQ slaw, leaves out the mayonnaise and replaces it with ketchup. The result is tangy and crunchy, and Lexington barbecue enthusiasts swear by it.
Pig-pickin’s have been a popular pastime for hundreds of years, and they haven’t changed much. There aren’t many things that build community more strongly than sharing food. Pig-pickin’s, which brought neighbors together to share the bounty of harvest, were some of the most important networking events of the day. These events were one of the only times different classes mixed, as barbecue was something all North Carolinians ate.
The term “go whole hog” comes from this tradition. Hopeful politicians often hosted pig-pickin’s as campaign events. These would feature a whole hog, split down the middle and slow-roasted. It was served with bread, a pickle and whiskey.
I can remember my first pickin’. Everyone was cheerful and laughter was in the air. My great-granddad picked me up so I could get the first taste from a still sizzling hog. I couldn’t have been more than three, but I remember how delicious that first bite was.
Interestingly, barbecue has always crossed racial lines. It’s never belonged to one race, and it’s always had a way of easing racial tensions. In fact, during the Jim Crow Era, many barbecue restaurants were owned by African Americans and white people ordered from the restaurants often. It’s thought that the “take-out” tradition had some roots here, as white people were more likely to order the food and take it home to eat.
Before the days of forced integration, barbecue restaurants were a place where both races coexisted peacefully.
We thank the North Carolina Department of Cultural Resources for their historical photographs of barbecue. Most of these were shot at the Braswell Plantation in Rocky Mount. If you want to know more, you can visit their traveling exhibit about barbecue, called The Story about BBQ in NC.
Recipes by Calvin Reyes
Eastern Carolina
- 2/3 Cup of Apple Cider Vinegar
- 2/3 Cup of White Vinegar
- 1 Tbsp of Paprika
- 1 Tbsp of Molasses
- 1 Tbsp of Salt
- 1 tsp of Minced Onion
- 1 tsp of Ground White Pepper
- 1 tsp of Red Pepper Flakes (Add more if you like it spicier)
In a medium pot, bring all ingredients to a simmer for 1 minute. Remove from heat and cool completely.
Western Carolina
- 1 Batch of East Carolina BBQ Sauce
- 2 tsp of Soy Sauce
- 1/2 Cup of Brown Sugar
- 6 oz of Tomato Paste
In a medium pot, bring all ingredients to a simmer for about 1 minute, or until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat and cool completely
South Carolina
- 1 Cup of Yellow Mustard
- 1 Cup of White Vinegar
- 2 Tbsp of Molasses
- 1 Tbsp of Worcestershire Sauce
- 1 Tbsp of Soy Sauce
- 1 Tbsp of Chili Powder
In a medium pot, bring all ingredients to a simmer for about 1 minute. Remove from heat and cool completely.
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